Canadian Rockies - Day 4

Amy tried to get the Old Man some skates in Spokane, but the only hockey skates they had in his size were $800. Since he hasn't skated in the dozen years she has known him, buying was out of the question. So we asked locals where to purchase ice skates, and the universal answer (even from the rental place) is Canadian Tire in Canmore. Huh? What is this Canadian secret? Hiding behind a tire facade, is a store akin to Farm and Fleet, a wide variety of auto and outdoor accessories, but not quite Tri State. There were 2 giant aisles of skates, sticks, pads, and pucks; but it had been picked clean after the holiday. The mister is shut out again. However, now that we are in on the secret, we can revisit the wonder of Canadian Tire another day.

Canmore is about 15 miles down the valley from Banff towards Calgary.  This little side trip gave us a good lesson in Canadian weather . . . it was 40 degrees in Banff, 50 degrees in Canmore, and 60 degrees in Calgary.  We were in the throes of a Chinook Wind.  We headed back up the valley in search of freezing temps for skating and skiing and were rewarded with snowfall just as we arrived in Lake Louise.

Today's adventure is nordic skiing on the Great Divide Trail, which follows an old rail road grade from Lake Louise up to and over the Continental Divide.  We ventured out from the trail head and set our sights on catching the group that left a few minutes before us.  After a few miles, we gained sight of them, yes! we cracked them.  Oh wait, why are they skiing backwards?  Alas, it was the same group returning to the trail head.  We had been channeling Lance (minus the HGH) and thought we had finally caught them.  Oh well . . . we found some nice trees to block the falling snow and settled in for lunch.

After another quality meal of Italian meats and aged cheddar (really, we like this stuff), we hit the trail for the return trip to the FJ.  The journey back was flat with slight grades, after a while we developed a rhythm and enjoyed the hush of falling snow in symphony with our own breathing.  Thankfully, we knew these guys might be on the trail, otherwise, it would have scared the hell out of us.  They were perfectly silent.

Several dog sled teams passed us by.  We actually saw one of the teams crash into the snowbank.  Apparently, there is some skill necessary for success (not to guide the dogs, but to steer the sled properly).  

After returning to FJ,  we headed back to Lake Louise for more ice skating.  With heavy snow falling, only one of us was foolish enough to put on his skates.  Meanwhile, the other one of us managed the fire pit for tourists who acted they had never seen something so rustic as an outdoor fire. 

Once again, Bobby Orr was rescued from having to prove his worth by claiming he was forced to follow the rules.

We explored the village of Lake Louise before heading back to Banff, and decided the term village was being used loosely.  The village consists of a couple of gas stations, a mini mall, and some spread out condo buildings within walking distance.  If choosing to stay here, we recommend opening the wallet to stay at the Chateau up at the lake or at the Post Hotel in the valley.  Don't come to Lake Louise and think you'll spend the many hours of darkness going bar hopping.  But do bring your ice skates, the ice rink in the village has lights and encourages hockey.  Also worth noting is the snowed in camp ground with plowed spots for those brave enough to bring their trailer this far north.

The return to Banff brought a steady rainfall, and thus, the Hot Springs would wait another night.  After a bottle of illegally imported Washington wine at the Rundlestone Lodge, either the rain stopped or we didn't notice it, so we headed out again for the one mile trek to downtown Banff.  Dinner found us in the Bear Street Tavern on street level below the Bison Restaraunt.  After a tasty dinner, Wilson needed the Canucks, and Amy sought a hoppy ale, so, we headed for the Banff Ave Brewing Company at the south end of the main drag on the second floor.  Success, Canucks on every screen and a delicious hoppy brew for the senorita.

We met several locals in the brewery and discussed the complete lack of accurate weather forecasts.  The universal response was, ignore the Weather Office, look out your window.  We left as one of the locals was griping that it wouldn't be cold enough to freeze the ice for the big hockey game the following weekend in Banff.

On the way back to the lodge, we both noted the crunchiness under our feet.  Since when does slush crunch?